Split Ring Header
The header must be the same number of stitches as the ring it will be attached
to. So if your single shuttle pattern is different feel free to change the header.
Instruction legend
- R = ring
- - – = picot
- cl = close ring
- rev = reverse
- ds = double stitch
- + = join
- / = the split side of the ring. as in 6 ds/6ds. the first 6ds is done normally
those after the /are the unturned stitches or split side of the ring.
Supplies: 2 shuttles wound on continous thread.
All rings in header 3ds p, 3ds/ 3ds p, 3ds cl
Repeat this until the header is as long as you want. The two picots in all the rings should be the same size. Remember you can enlarge the picots somewhat but you can’t shrink down a to large picot. After I finished my row of rings I took the point of a Boye plastic shuttle and ran it through each picot to even them out.
One thing I should mention is if you are going to add the following edging on the header then you must do the heading in multiples of three. I chose to make two rows of split rings, but you can do one row and attach the edging to each side. The second row of split rings will read
All rings in second row of header 3ds +, 3ds/ 3ds p, 3ds cl
Try to make the picots the same size as the first row.
Work the second row so you are joining the first ring of the second row to
the last ring on the first row. This will help the rows of rings to lay flat.
Edging, which I am sure you all know.
- Ring 1: 3ds p, 3ds + (to first free picot on header) 3 ds p, 3ds cl rev
- leave 1/8 of an inch of thread between rings.
- Ring 2: 4 ds p, 3ds cl rev
- Ring 3: 3 ds +(to ring 1) 3ds +to next picot on header) 3ds p, 3ds cl rev
- Ring 4: 4ds + (to ring 2) 2ds p, x 6, 4ds cl rev
- Ring 5: 3ds +(to ring 3) 3ds + to next picot on header) 3ds p, 3ds cl rev
- Ring 6: 3ds + to ring 4, 4ds cl rev
- Ring 7: 3ds + to ring 5, 3ds + to next picot on header) 3ds p, 3ds cl rev
Repeat between step 3 and step 8 for the desired length.
After you finish one side of the header do the same edging on the other side for a bookmark. Or only do edging on one side for edging with header. An easy 1/8 of an inch guide is to place your thumbnail against the ring you have just finished. As you start to form the next ring bring the first ds up against you thumbnail. That is about 1/8 of an inch.
Finishing:
If your thread lengths between rings seems uneven (join the crowd) pull the rings away from each other. There is a little play in these patterns. If the joining picots seem tight and the edging wants to cup forward, gently pull the joins away from each other. What you want is an open airy effect, so don’t worry if you joins aren’t tight up against each other as they usually are in tatting. Of course you don’t want your joins flopping around either.
What you want is for the edging to lay flat. This is so simple I hope that you aren’t disappointed. It does look lovely though.
Oh I nearly forgot if you HATE split rings, you can still do this. You have to carry the thread around the back of the ring. But the overall effect is still the same. Your header pattern would read, 3ds p, 3ds very small picot, 3ds p, 3ds cl. Bring thread around back of ring and pull a loop through the small picot. Pass the shuttle through the loop and tighten. Repeat for length.
I am not crazy about making split rings. But for a fair entry I figured I had better not have thread on the back of my rings.
If making split rings and doing single shuttle patterns isn’t enough pain for you I can add Lock Picots between the rings on the edging. True suffering!
-Suzann
Feel free to use enjoy share and cover your world with tatting.
Related :